Jane Wolfe – Natural Beauty Yearbook

I had a conversation recently with an organic beauty expert who expressed genuine concern over the way in which we, as consumers, have been conditioned to buy cosmetics. Her fear is that many shoppers are enticed by premium designer labels rather than the contents of the product. The fact that these products often have overin- flated prices has in turn distorted consumer perspective of how much beauty products truly cost to make.

Her point is that while many shoppers are happy to pay upwards of £35 for a designer foundation, they will question the price of an unknown organic brand’s foundation despite its superior quality of ingredients and smaller profit margin.

She added that, more often than not, the bigger the price tag, the more a consumer is likely to trust and buy in to that brand because they believe there must be a genuine justification for such an eye-wateringly high fee. They refuse to believe that a £6 foundation often contains the same ingredients as a £40 one.

The holy grail of facial moisturizers, as endorsed by celebrities worldwide, is Cre?me de la Mer, which retails at a staggering £110 per 30ml pot (or, if you’re feeling flush, £1,370 for 500ml). I can find no list of ingredients on its website, but the product description informs me that the “heart of Cre?me de la Mer’s profound powers of transformation” lies in the secret of its “nutrient-rich Miracle Broth”. (I can’t help but wonder if it’s the same recipe as my mum’s chicken soup, because that too works miracles when feeling under the weather, but I digress.)

Although I don’t doubt that a drop of Cre?me de la Mer on each cheek will leave my skin feeling silky soft and hydrated, nothing short of cosmetic surgery can, in my mind, justify such a price point. My beauty expert and I can’t be the only ones who are questioning the marketing hype, who can see past the glossy packaging, and would prefer to pay face value for ingredients.

And please don’t misunderstand and assume that I’m simply a cosmetic Scrooge, because that really isn’t the case. Show me a nourishing argan oil serum, and I’ll pay whatever is required because I know full well how labour-intensive the journey is to get this prized argan fruit from seed to skin.

And there it is – product transparency – the real justification behind a premium price tag. And the reason for the latest big buzz launch – Beauty Pie. Masterminded by Marcia Kilgore, the brains behind Bliss Spa, Fit Flops, Soap & Glory and most recently Soaper Duper, the digital brand’s simple proposition is to cut out the middleman and allow shoppers to buy direct from the factories that also supply the majority of make-up to well-known luxury beauty brands. Those who sign up to Beauty Pie can buy a lipstick for £3.43, a mascara for £1.87, and foundation for a mere £5.29.

The Telegraph’s acting beauty editor Victoria Hall believes it to be a game changer, commenting: “The theory that ‘you get what you pay for’ has allowed the prestige cosmetics industry to thrive for years. However, it could all be about to change with Beauty Pie.”

It is unclear at the time of writing whether organic products are offered, but that aside, this is surely the long-awaited expose? the natural beauty industry has been waiting for. At last, consumers will be able to see the face value of beauty products – no marketing spin, no luxe packaging, just cost-price ingredients. That’s definitely the kind of pie that I will happily pay for a slice of.

Julia Zaltzmann is a freelance journalist and editor of Natural Beauty News.

As is usual for December, a host of predictions have been forthcoming about what will be the new trends and innovations for the coming year.

As far as the beauty and bodycare sector is concerned, gender-neutral beauty is going to grow in popularity in 2017, according to the Innovation Group’s Future 100 report. Lucie Greene, worldwide director of the group and author of the report, says that as male make-up artists are breaking the social taboo about men wearing make-up, it is leading to beauty branding and packaging becoming less overtly feminine. She adds that repositioning make-up as a creative tool rather than a ‘feminine’ product could also boost sales across the board.

Technology is also set to revolutionize the beauty industry, with a wave of innovative connected products being launched that deliver the much sought after beauty ‘personalization’. An example is Wired Beauty which launched a connected face mask called Mapo that links with the user’s phone, analyzes the wearer’s skin and suggests the best beauty regime. Greene says that companies are just beginning to scratch the surface in this area.

With consumers demanding more choice and higher standards when it comes to nude offerings, the report also believes that brands will finally begin to offer make-up lines with a more diverse range of skin tones as they currently fail to reflect the population. “Although many brands are now beginning to incorporate ethnic shades as part of their ‘nude’ lines, it’s not enough to pay lip service,” says Greene.

She also flags up three hot beauty ingredients for next year: avocado oil; turmeric – which is now being recommended for facemasks and creams to combat acne and skin flare-ups; and by-products. The latter area includes ingredients such as red maple tree bark for anti-ageing; sorghum bran to soothe skin; and fermented coconut oil as a preservative. “All of the above are trends that started first in food and drink,” explains Greene. “Avocado toast, turmeric as a food ingredient, coconut oil and foods made from by-products have all caught on in recent years. Food and drink innovation remains a powerful predictor of the beauty trends coming down the pipeline.”

And as 2016 has seen the emergence of pollution-fighting skincare products, this will continue and grow into next year, says the report, along with further developments in anti-ageing solutions.

Natural beauty brand benecos is adding new lip balms and cleansing wipes to its product line in the New Year.

The brand’s new Natural Lip Balms are designed to protect and nourish lips and keep chapped skin at bay. Containing organic shea butter to moisturise and add shine, the balms are available in Classic, Orange, Mint and Raspberry varieties.

Benecos’ Happy Cleansing Wipes with Aloe Vera and Orange are vegan and biodegradable. They contain natural ingredients including aloe vera extract and orange fruit water and have an uplifting fragrance of orange and mango. Suitable for all skin types and pH neutral, the wipes contain no alcohol, are dermatologically tested and BDIH-certified.

The post Key concerns debated at European Sustainable Cosmetics Summit appeared first on Natural Beauty Yearbook.

A number of the key sustainability issues facing the cosmetics industry have been highlighted at the European Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in Paris.

Pressing issues included contentious chemicals in personal care formulations, resource and carbon management, and the impact of packaging.

During sessions focusing on personal care ingredients, it was pointed out that although there is high awareness of palm oil and polyethylene beads, other less well known chemicals also have a detrimental impact on the environment.

Allard Marx, founder and CEO of Aethic, called for greater scrutiny of sunscreen chemicals, which are leading to the destruction of coral reef in many parts of the world. Andrew Thompson of Ronald Britton said that at least eight million tonnes of plastics leak into the ocean each year, disrupting marine eco-systems. His company has developed bio-based glitter as an alternative to conventional glitter.

With air pollution being linked to increased skin sensitivity and pigmentation, the advent of anti-pollution skincare was also covered.

Davide Bollati, chair of Italian sustainable hair care company Davines, also spoke at the event about the sustainable village the brand is opening in 2017, which will produce natural ingredients, create zero waste and be powered by green energy.

And William Cook from Marks & Spencer outlined its Plan A roadmap for its goal to become the most sustainable major retailer in the world. Two-thirds of its products now have a Plan A feature, including its Pure Natural beauty range, which is made from grape waste.

Professor Andrew Parker, founder and CEO of Lifescaped, gave a keynote on the potential of biomimetics. He expressed his concerns about losing nature’s technology, since every hour three species are becoming extinct on Earth. He urged the cosmetics industry to harness nature’s potential to create innovative products.

More information about the European Sustainable Cosmetics Summit can be found here.

Photo L to R: Sabine Kaestner, Spokesperson, Lavera; William Cook, Beauty Technologist, Marks & Spencer; Anne Himeno, Business Development, Chainpoint; Davide Bollati, Chairman, Davines; Dominic Watkins, Partner, DWF; Amarjit Sahota, Director, Organic Monitor

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AA Skincare has created a range of five plant-inspired Shower & Bath Gels, featuring holistic Ayurvedic herb powders to boost skin heath, cleanse and protect all skin types.

The new products combine essential oils and natural extracts with healing herb powders, such as rejuvenating Brahmi to help cleanse and hydrate, vitamin C-rich Alma to promote skin health, and Tulsi, which works to calm skin and stimulate blood flow.

The Shower & Bath Gels are available in: Cedarwood & Peppermint to invigorate and purify; Rosemary, Burdock & Sage to boost circulation and protect skin; Amla & Clary Sage to balance and moisturize; Peony, Bay & Brahmi to hydrate and soothe; and nutrient-rich Ylang Ylang, Argan & Rosemary.

“Our new, dual-purpose range is perfect for shower or bath, and contains Ayurveda herb powders – time-tested, holistic ingredients that have played a part in healthy skin in India for more than 5,000 years – gently cleansing, nourishing and moisturizing skin,” comments Woody Evans, director at AA Skincare.

The range is free from parabens and artificial fragrances and the packaging is fully recyclable.

Following the success of Organic Beauty Week in 2016, this year the event will move out from within the umbrella of Organic September and be an event on its own.

The event will have a new date in May, thus opening up the opportunity for organic beauty to touch two points in the year.

In 2016, Organic Beauty Week achieved its best ever reach, with 21 editorial placements in key media – a 200% increase on 2015 by number of placements and 19% up by total reach. There was an eight million social reach, and #organicbeautyweek had over 1,200 tweets and more than 800 posts on Instagram, and #lookforthelogo had over 50 tweets and more than 1,500 posts on Instagram.

Lauren Bartley, business development manager, health & beauty, Soil Association Certification, explained the move: “With increased consumer awareness and demand for organic beauty, we will be moving Organic Beauty Week out of Organic September and creating a dedicated week in the calendar year to Beauty and Wellbeing. Organic Beauty & Wellbeing week will take place in May 2017 as a pop-up shop for consumers, press and beauty buyers to learn about and shop for certified organic beauty and wellbeing in an experiential way.”

The post Saach Organics aims to energize with Ayurvedic formulas appeared first on Natural Beauty Yearbook.

Natural beauty brand Saach Organics has added two new products to its range of Ayurvedic bodycare products.

The new Mint & Rosemary Cleansing & Refreshing Shower Gel is designed to soothe muscle aches and pains, and the Mint & Rosemary Body Lotion aims to moisturize and revitalize the skin.

Both products incorporate spearmint essential oil which cools and stimulates, and rosemary essential oil which acts as a tonic and calms and relaxes.

The new products join Saach Organics’ existing range which includes Day Protection Lotion & Sunscreen, Green Tea & Aloe Vera Shower Gel, Colour Protect Shampoo, and Hair Nourishment Conditioner.

The post Saach Organics aims to energize with Ayurvedic formulas appeared first on Natural Beauty Yearbook.

Once a year, around the month of November, great minds from the natural beauty sector assemble at Diversified Communications HQ in Brighton to attend the Natural Beauty Roundtable. It’s a humbling experience to be part of, to witness the merging of expert opinions, to hear the knowledgeable speak from their perspectives, and to ascertain what new terrain our much-loved industry is embarking on.

What I found most revealing this time around, however, wasn’t the table’s desire for boundary-breaking innovation or their impassioned views on regulation, but instead a more self-effacing and introspective look at where to go from here.

Organic future?
There is no denying that the industry is indeed moving forward. The Soil Association continues to record around 20% growth each year, with the number of applicants increasing on average by 51% annually. But of course these statistics are only reflective of certified organic growth. As good an indicator as they are, what if organic isn’t the future of natural beauty at all? What if the focus is on sustainability instead?

The natural beauty industry has been marching to the beat of the certification drum for so long now that perhaps we’ve forgotten to tune in to the rest of the orchestra alongside it? Taking responsibility for our own health and beauty, and striving for an environmental, financial and ethically sustainable future, were the key points that seemed to truly resonate with all of the roundtable panelists.

I need a hero
It’s good to keep innovating, and definitely necessary to keep looking outside of our own sector for new, pioneering ideas, but not to the detriment of our existing creations. Particularly when retailers are telling us that 80% of their yearly sales are made up of ‘hero’ products.

Instead of following the mainstream beauty timeline, where new launches are old news within three to six months, we should be slowing down, taking our time and investing our energy and marketing skills in educating consumers. If the future of the industry is founded on sustainability, then ‘Slow Beauty’ seems to be the obvious next step.

New product development is what the consumer thinks they want, but it’s our job, as a sector, to show them what they really need. And that is ecological, justifiable, effective, viable beauty. If you get it right the first time, then there’s surely no need to keep reinventing the wheel.

New ingredients, evolving applications and innovative preservatives are always going to be at the forefront of an industry that is ultimately driven by a desire to look good. And there is no denying that it’s the exciting, fresh beauty inventions that entice customers through the shop door. But it’s not always necessary to be out with the old, and in with the new. Or more to the point, out with the local, and in with the organic.

The post Terre Verdi unwraps travel sizes, gift sets for Christmas appeared first on Natural Beauty Yearbook.

Ethical and organic brand skincare Terre Verdi has introduced new travel sizes of four of its products and created two new gift sets in time for Christmas.

The brand’s FranChouliPom Body Oil, Yoga&Sports Body Oil, Acqua di Rosa Balancing Mist and GoodOils Cleansing Oil are now all available in 30ml travel sizes.

Terre Verdi’s Organic Gift Set for Body contains FranChouliPom Body Oil and Yoga&Sports Body Oil (both 30ml), together with its versatile cold-pressed Marocco Argan Oil (50ml) which can be used on skin, nails and hair.

The Organic Gift Set for Face includes travel sizes of Terre Verdi GoodOils Cleansing Oil and AcquaDiRosa Balancing Mist, along with the FranChouliPom Facial Serum, suitable for dry or mature skin.

All Terre Verdi products are certified organic with Soil Association COSMOS, cruelty-free and vegan.

The post Terre Verdi unwraps travel sizes, gift sets for Christmas appeared first on Natural Beauty Yearbook.

Vital Life International has announced the launch of multi-award-winning French skincare brand Ixxi onto UK shelves.

The range is based on the antioxidant properties of OPC PINS, a French Maritime Bark Extract native to forests in the Landes region of the country.

Ixxi products are designed to overcome stress caused by environmental factors, reducing the signs of ageing and affording skin a healthy, revitalized glow.

The brand offers a distinct beauty regime to care for skin at every stage in life (from teens to mature) and for every skin type (dry, oily, sensitive, normal and combination), addressing the effects of sun and environmental pollution.

The initial range comprises three products, including Nightime Detox Emulsion Cream designed to enhance the complexion to give a fresh, radiant glow, eliminate toxins and diminish the appearance of wrinkles.

The Skin Enhancing Daily Defence Care is a multi-action tinted moisturizer formulated to firm and protect the skin from pollution. Its silky, light texture merges with the skin to create a protective layer that lasts throughout the day. The unique formulation includes heather and everlasting flower extract.

Isabelle Hontang, the brand’s commercial export sales director, commented on the launch: “We are excited to be launching IXXI into the UK marketplace. London is where all international brands want to be, simply because it is the capital for setting trends and is always forward thinking. The London shopping experience is unique with consumers from the UK, and all across the globe heading to the capital to find out the latest and most effective innovations within the beauty industry. The IXXI range offers natural skincare that is both effective and responsible in production and use, plus provides a solution to the growing demand of UK customers for ethical beauty. We are excited to the start of an amazing journey here in the UK!”