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]]>As far as the beauty and bodycare sector is concerned, gender-neutral beauty is going to grow in popularity in 2017, according to the Innovation Group’s Future 100 report. Lucie Greene, worldwide director of the group and author of the report, says that as male make-up artists are breaking the social taboo about men wearing make-up, it is leading to beauty branding and packaging becoming less overtly feminine. She adds that repositioning make-up as a creative tool rather than a ‘feminine’ product could also boost sales across the board.
Technology is also set to revolutionize the beauty industry, with a wave of innovative connected products being launched that deliver the much sought after beauty ‘personalization’. An example is Wired Beauty which launched a connected face mask called Mapo that links with the user’s phone, analyzes the wearer’s skin and suggests the best beauty regime. Greene says that companies are just beginning to scratch the surface in this area.
With consumers demanding more choice and higher standards when it comes to nude offerings, the report also believes that brands will finally begin to offer make-up lines with a more diverse range of skin tones as they currently fail to reflect the population. “Although many brands are now beginning to incorporate ethnic shades as part of their ‘nude’ lines, it’s not enough to pay lip service,” says Greene.
She also flags up three hot beauty ingredients for next year: avocado oil; turmeric – which is now being recommended for facemasks and creams to combat acne and skin flare-ups; and by-products. The latter area includes ingredients such as red maple tree bark for anti-ageing; sorghum bran to soothe skin; and fermented coconut oil as a preservative. “All of the above are trends that started first in food and drink,” explains Greene. “Avocado toast, turmeric as a food ingredient, coconut oil and foods made from by-products have all caught on in recent years. Food and drink innovation remains a powerful predictor of the beauty trends coming down the pipeline.”
And as 2016 has seen the emergence of pollution-fighting skincare products, this will continue and grow into next year, says the report, along with further developments in anti-ageing solutions.
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]]>If you don’t have an uber-dewy complexion and you’re not working your ‘bitten lip’ look every day, then you clearly haven’t got your K-Beauty ‘thang’ down pat!
Asian beauty trends have dominated the beauty market since their arrival in 2014. “Asian-ification”, as dubbed by Nicole Tyrimou, beauty and personal care analyst at Euromonitor International, is, she says, one of the major growth factors in beauty, especially skincare. And with unusual ingredients, new science and branding prowess, it’s clear to see how companies from Korea, China and Japan are challenging the dominance of Western beauty brands.
By 2019, Euromonitor estimates 80% of global skincare revenue (worth around $44 billion, according to the NPD Group) will come from Asia, with China set to account for 75% of total regional growth. That’s a considerable chunk of the market!
The bad news here for natural beauty brands and retailers, however, is the requirement in China for beauty manufacturers to animal test before products are sold on the local market. And an ever growing list of natural and organic brands are boycotting China, including Dr Hauschka, Weleda, Lavera, Pangea Organic and Jurlique. The good news is that where China is losing out, Singapore, India, Thailand and Hong Kong are picking up the slack, with the Asian natural beauty market continuing to expand exponentially, as are South Korean companies.
Not content to merely innovate in the field of BB creams, serums, brightening creams, dark spot correctors and anti-ageing products, South Korea is cottoning on to the burgeoning natural beauty market, and is in the process of phasing out animal testing for cosmetics by 2018. The bill entered into law earlier this year.
According to Martin Mallon of Cruelty International: “In the discussions leading up to the current law which phases out animal tests, we found Korean companies very supportive. This reflects strong feelings among many Korean consumers that they want to use cosmetics which have not involved animal suffering.”
Belif uses only herbal ingredients in its formulations (and boasts the No 1 moisturizer on the premium Korean skincare market), while Blossom Jeju and Innisfree source ingredients such as sea kelp, green tea, lotus and camellia from Jeju island, in an attempt to make products that are purely natural ingredient-based.
Sarah Lee and Christine Chang are founders of Glow Recipe, an e-commerce beauty site that curates the best natural beauty products from Korea. “Korean skincare and make-up are all about enhancing natural beauty rather than covering imperfections,” says Lee. “Koreans love using natural ingredients and are constantly looking for skincare formulations with natural ingredients that are highly concentrated, as they prefer a gentle, yet effective result, rather than a dramatic transformation.”
It’s still early days though, and according to Chang and Lee, it’s too soon to find the words ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ on Korean beauty products. Instead, consumers look for products that state ‘zero water’ in their ingredients list, as an indicator that the product’s use of natural ingredients hasn’t been watered down or diluted. Even more promising is the latest technique whereby fermentation acts as a natural preservative, providing a possible solution for manufacturers seeking alternatives to parabens.
It’s clear that the next wave of organic beauty formulations won’t be coming from Korea just yet, but if their successful innovations and beauty trends continue to marry with a drive towards natural beauty formulations, it’s only a matter of time before the likes of fermentation preservative systems become the norm across the Western world too.
Julia Zaltzmann is a freelance journalist and editor of Natural Beauty News.
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N&N Youth-Protect Moisturizer combines skin-boosting and nourishing ingredients and is bursting with fruit antioxidants and vitamins. Organic buriti oil in included along with roasted coffee bean oil and vanilla extract, for a strong anti-ageing boost and a subtle scent.
Derma-Renew Exfoliating Cleanser is packed with vitamin E and blueberries to deliver moisture to the skin, while extracts of orange and peppermint aim to leave skin feeling clean and refreshed, and ground apricot kernels gently exfoliate.
Instant-Lift Eye Gel includes rice bran oil, tomato leaf oil, and cucumber and chamomile extracts to soothe, smooth and lift the sensitive area under and around the eyes.
Wrinkle-Repair Night Serum blends marula oil and argan oil – renowned for being rich in vitamins, antioxidants and essential fatty acids – with a naturally derived hexapeptide, along with apricot, watermelon and crambe seed oils, to create a product with what the brand calls impressive anti-ageing properties.
N&N says it aims to challenge the notion that natural, eco-friendly products fit in a niche area of the skincare market and can’t compete with mainstream brands. In addition, N&N believes that nobody should have to choose between their ethical values and the quality of their skincare regime, and it ensures the sustainability of each ingredient sourced.
Company owner Michael Gwinnett comments: “Nature & Nurture has two core values at its heart: ethics and efficacy. Each item in our range is proof that products made from natural, sustainably-sourced and palm-free ingredients can compete with any product on the market in terms of quality.”
The products are handmade, vegan and palm-oil free and are endorsed by the Orangutan Foundation, which benefits from every sale of N&N products.
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]]>Ivory takes the offer to three shades – along with Light and Medium – and is designed for very fair and porcelain complexions.
The moisturiser is made using colour correcting natural earth minerals which aim to reduce redness and balance out sallow complexions as well as minimising the appearance of pores to leave a smooth and even skin tone.
Green People highlights that the moisturiser’s point of difference the incorporation of stem cell technology from the sea fennel plant which offers a complete anti-ageing solution for the skin: intense hydration; skin renewal stimulation; and antioxidant protection.
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]]>Jaffrey – a chemist who holds the patent for glycolic acid after discovering its anti-aging properties – created the all-natural range using unbuffered glycolic acid, natural botanicals, minerals and oils to repair and rejuvenate skin.
Designed to work in cooperation with the skin’s immune system, the ingredients are combined using what the company calls the unique Bioferm bio-fermentation process so that they are easily recognized and accepted by the skin, enabling them to get to work immediately.
The range is suitable for all skin types and includes Treatment Cleanser which stimulates natural ceramide production, locks in moisture and deep cleans the pores; VenoDefense Eye Treatment Serum; Line Smoothing Treatment Serum; VenoDefense Treatment Crème – a proprietary complex of anti-inflammatory ingredients that mimic snack venom activity to reduce skin inflammation and ageing; and JO2 Compound Oxygenated Crème.
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]]>The Sun Care Kit comprises an organic facial and body oil to provide 100% UVA protection. When applied before an SPF, the oils can act as a barrier to the chemicals found in many high street brands.
The 10 Years Younger skincare kit aims to turn your mindset on its head, says the company. Developed using “pioneering” science and natural, organic ingredients, the product duo comprises a facial oil and blending cream which aims to transform skin in as little as ten days.
There are six duos in the range – Luxury, Revital, Uplifting, Balancing, Holistic and Sensitive – to cater for every skin type. Each kit provides total UVA and some UVB protection while preventing mitochondrial decay, a process that leads to cellular decline and is now regarded by many scientists as the main underlying cause of ageing.
Both ranges are based on enriched vital oils rich in vitamins and omegas, and the formulas contain antioxidants to neutralize free radicals (think superfood in skin care form, says the company) and protect cells from the ageing process. The products are designed to reinforce the hydro lipid film – the protective waxy film on the skin – which is often compromised by chemicals designed to break down fatty molecules such as wipes, shower gels and shampoos.
“Our skin is exposed to an increasing onslaught of chemicals from both our products and our environment,” comments John Hamilton, brand founder and dermatologist. “Standard antioxidants are no longer enough to counter the effects of increasingly potent free radicals. This breakthrough in understanding the process of mitochondrial decay is providing a new anti-ageing solution as never seen before.”
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]]>The AA Skincare brand was created by aromatherapy and essential oil supplier Amphora Aromatics and this new range is formulated using pure essential oils and natural ingredients. The brand offers solutions for young, teenage skin right through to mature and sensitive skin, and covers anti-ageing moisturizers, cleansers, face masks, deodorants and liquid soaps.
Products include Lemongrass & Lavender Natural Deodorant; Vanilla & Honey Skin Polish Face Mask; Jasmine, Mimosa & Rosehip Moisturizing Face Cream; Lavender & Tea Tree Moisturizing Face Lotion; and Mandarin & Aloe Cleansing Water.
The new AA Skincare Essentials range is available as individual products as well as gift set combinations, and retailers can also mix and match products to design bespoke gift sets exclusive to their stores.
“Our new AA Skincare Essentials range is perfect for customers looking for naturally effective and environmentally-friendly products,” comments Woody Evans, director of AA Skincare. “The range combines pure essential oils with classic natural ingredients such as frankincense and rose, almond and sandalwood and seaweed and aloe to give skin a treat without costing the earth and featuring fantastic new anti-ageing and moisturizing properties.”
All products are free of parabens and artificial fragrances and the contemporary, subtly-coloured packaging is fully recyclable.
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]]> Natural bodycare company Balance Me has won the InStyle Best Beauty Buys 2015 ‘Editors’ Choice award in the Bath & Body category, with the most recent product to launch, its new Super Toning Body Polish.Make-up artist Emma Day used INIKA cosmetics, including its Pure Primer, Liquid Mineral Foundation and Pink Cloud Crème Eyeshadow, to create an eco-chic look for actress Andrea Riseborough when she scooped Outstanding Performance by a Cast in a Motion Picture for Birdman at the Screen Actors Guild Awards in January.
French natural and organic skincare brand Alorée – said to be the first brand to use chlorophyll from plants as an anti-ageing ingredient – has partnered with Pravera Ltd with the aim of establishing itself in the UK premium natural beauty market.
Fuel PR has been appointed to handle the press and publicity for haircare brand Herbatint which has relaunched its range of ammonia-and alcohol-free natural herb-based permanent hair colourants and care products as well as preparing to launch a brand new website – check if this is up yet.
Described as comforting, grounding and strengthening, Aromatherapy Associates’ Deep Relax Bath & Shower Oil has been awarded Best Bath Oil at the annual InStyle Beauty Buys.
Botanical Brands has launched Living Nature’s new Skin Revive Exfoliant product – a two-in-one cleanser and exfoliant formulated using botanicals from New Zealand combined with natural wax microbeads.
Green People has introduced its organic Age Defy+ Tinted DD Moisturizer SPF 15 for all skin types. Available in two blendable tones – light and medium – it is made with colour-correcting natural earth minerals.
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]]>The products use fruit stem cells from apples combined with those from a rare grape variety to increase the longevity of skin’s natural cells, defend against UV, oxidative and environmental stress, stimulate, repair and regenerate skin at a cellular level.
These fruit stem cells are then combined with Andalou Naturals’ BioActive 8 Berry Complex – a mix of superfruit antioxidants – and organic aloe vera designed to soothe, oxygenate and hydrate the skin.
The offer is available in three ranges for different skin types and ages: the Age Defying range is for dry skin and incorporates resveratrol Q10 to improve elasticity and firmness and reduce wrinkles; the Brightening Skin Care range is for normal/combination skin and includes vitamin C; and the Clarifying Skin Care range uses willow bark extract for a clear complexion for those with oily skin.
Each range comprises a variety of products to cleanse, exfoliate, nourish, tone, repair, moisturize and protect the skin to provide a complete skincare routine.
The brand is also launching its Beautiful Hair Care range which combines fruit stem cell technology with natural, organic and fairly traded ingredients for improved follicle health and vitality.
The Age Defying range harnesses the power of argan fruit stem cells to treat the causes of thinning hair; Full Volume range has added lavender and biotin; Brilliant Shine incorporates sunflower and citrus; Moisture Rich contains argan and sweet orange.
The range is available exclusively through Tree of Life.
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]]>“My experience creating skincare formulas for other brands for eight years helped develop my intuition when it comes to exploring new skincare ingredients. I had a feeling that chlorophyll, which enables plants to capture energy from sunshine and is crucial to the photosynthesis process, had strong anti-ageing properties. In partnership with the University of Montpellier, I did extensive research into this area and discovered that this was indeed the case,” explains company founder and MD Alexandra Croce.
As chlorophyll can’t be extracted by itself from plants, Croce developed a unique CHC (chlorophyllin hordeum complex) serum to incorporate into its range. The complex contains chlorophyll from young organic barley shoots as well as polyphenols, vitamin E, organic grapeseed oil, organic camelina oil and organic muscat rosebush oil. High in antioxidants, the serum aims to boost skin cell metabolism to leave skin moisturized, brighter, rejuvenated and visibly younger.
The 14-strong ECOCERT-certified offer comprises products including Purifying Cleansing Milk, City Resistant Nourishing Face Cream, Two Phase Hydrating Face Mist; Detox Face Scrub Kit; CC Cream Second Life; and Purifying Toner.
“Over the last 12 to 18 months, much has been written about the cancer-fighting and healing benefits of chlorophyll present in green superfoods. Alorée is the first brand to use this much talked about ingredient in skincare formulations,” says Graeme Hume, MD of Pravera Ltd. “This unique selling point combined with the fact the products are all tested for their efficacy and deliver proven anti-ageing results makes Alorée a fantastic addition to our brand portfolio.”
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